Montreal

Wondering why you’re getting these updates about a month late? Let’s just say that this is now more about journaling than providing daily trip updates. Something for me to look back upon. Humour me

When I left off we were slumming it at the Chateau.

With much confusion and more miscommunication we were able to get the package of tires from Dumoulin with the help of a very kind FedEx delivery person. I only replaced the bad tire so we could get on the road more quickly (and I was cold too).

As we crossed over to the island of Montreal we begin to see the signs of the great cycling network that we’ll take advantage of over the next few days.

Ste-Anne-de-Bellevue canal

We follow the St. Lawrence river the entire way into Montreal where we’re staying at our Warm Showers’ hosts on the Isle des Sœurs. Great bike paths and calm streets make for an enjoyable day of cycling (not to mention the peace of mind from having new tires).

The municipality even created paths to the river to enable people to surf the rapids

Warm Showers

I found a shortcut to our hosts taking Charles down a gravel path and through a park – much to the chagrin of the locals. It was getting dark but Claire and Loïc were there to welcome us. We knew we were at the right place when we entered their garage and it was full of bicycles. Over the course of the evening we discovered that their son uses public transport and a skateboard to get to school and their daughter arrived home on her bike from school and finally Claire had to leave (on her bike) for choir practice. They definitely care about their footprint as witnessed from the modes of transportation and other things I noticed throughout their house. We shared a delicious meal with the whole family and it was such a great way to finish a wonderful day; getting to know them better and getting advice on routes for our trip.

This is where our plans will change drastically.

Cold and Raining

Great coffee from Claire and Loïc, Charles doing a bit of laundry and we’re off. The ‘plan’ today is to get a replacement part for Charles’ CPAP mask in downtown Montreal then head over to check out the islands (Ste-Hélène and Notre dame) and then head toward Granby as advised by Claire.

I lead Charles on a tour of the Verdon area of Montreal in search of the perfect coffee place (he was very patient). We finally landed on Café le 5e which turned out to be a gem. Garbage-free and delicious coffee, a small outdoor patio where coffee would turn into lunch of a couple of wonderful sandwiches. It was a very long stop so we’re behind ‘schedule‘!

The CPAP distributor in Montreal is no longer there so we head for one in Longueuil via a tour of the islands:

It starts raining and we’re cold so we decide to book a hotel and ended up here:

After a day of cycling in Montreal we’re about six kilometres from last night’s stay!
Once again, a hotel that says “just take your bike up to the room” – love it
(Note the new tires???)

Montreal Day 2

Let’s try this again. Le Dauphin was terrific; great breakfast, great location and as mentioned, bikes safely stored in the room. We’re off once again to tour the islands and head to Longueuil.

Leaving Montreal on the pont Jacques Cartier

Again I’m so pleased with the integration of cycling into so much of the city’s streets and bridges.

Isle Ste. Hélène (Expo 67)

We heading south now but not before we run into a raised bridge and security guard Miko (I think that was his name). Lovely gentleman who kept us informed of the details of this bridge and the locks.

The Algoma lake freighter

The bridge lowers and we’re on our way, or so I thought—Charles has engaged with Serge who appears to have a flat tire. Turns out he’s just needs air due to his bike being stored for a while.

Charles is able to get a new mask. Unfortunately, I’m feeling crappy, it’s cold and looking like tons of rain for the next few days. We decide, given that Thanksgiving is coming up, that we’re going to head home.

Lunch at Metro while we contemplate our return trip

That means back over the bridges again which just happens to be raised again giving us another opportunity to chat with some other cyclists. I’m explaining to two women that eventually the bridge will lower and we’ll be able to cross when I make the anglophone mistake of mixing basser and baser 🤓.

For variety we head south under the new Pont Champlain and take the pedestrian bridge over to Isle des Sœurs.

The replacement bridge has commuter rail down the middle

We book into the Montreal Delta for the night and head out to an tasty Thai restaurant. We know the next few days are going to be wet and cold.

Bright and early check out l around noon and it’s pouring rain. We’re going to follow the Lachine canal to the river then follow the St Lawrence again to Dorion. Soaking wet we stop at a cafe that turned out to be just what we needed to warm up and have lunch. Great coffee and homemade sandwiches and the best date squares ever!

One more coffee in Ste-Anne-de-Bellevue and we’re heading south to our campground which we have no idea is even open. This is what we found:

The canal was finished around 1905 and was rendered unnecessary after the building of the Seaway. We follow a great, paved bike path along the canal heading toward Cornwall.

Locks along the way in a state of disrepair

The cold and wet journey reinforces our decision to cut short our trip. After a budget hotel in Cornwall our final day is dry and cold though quite pleasant. Lunch again at the St. Albert’s cheese factory for one of their delicious burgers.

Already thinking about the real East Coast trip next year. Stay tuned.

Thoughts?